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Rich wild woodland mushroom soup

A thick, dark, thoroughly old-fashioned soup thickened with stale bread rather than flour. It was written for a big autumn haul of mixed woodland mushrooms and it is still the best way to use a basket of odds and ends.

Serves 6 · About 45 minutes

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Ingredients

  • 900g mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned and roughly chopped
  • 150g stale white bread, crusts removed, torn into pieces
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 4 tbsp olive oil
  • 1.2 litres vegetable or chicken stock
  • 2 sprigs thyme and 1 bay leaf
  • 150ml single cream, plus 3 tbsp double cream, lightly whipped, to serve
  • 2 tbsp dry sherry or madeira
  • A good grating of nutmeg
  • Salt and plenty of black pepper

Method

  1. Warm the olive oil in a large heavy pan and cook the onion gently for 10 minutes until soft and sweet. Add the garlic for the last minute.
  2. Turn the heat up and add the mushrooms with the thyme and bay. Cook hard, stirring, until they have released their liquid and that liquid has boiled away again - eight to twelve minutes. Do not rush this stage; it is where the flavour comes from.
  3. Set aside a couple of spoonfuls of the cooked mushrooms if you want something to put back in at the end.
  4. Add the stock and the torn bread, bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. The bread will collapse completely and thicken the soup.
  5. Fish out the bay leaf and the thyme stalks. For a smooth soup, liquidise thoroughly; for a chunkier one, blitz about half and leave the rest.
  6. Return to the pan, stir in the single cream and the sherry, and warm through without boiling. Season generously with salt, pepper and nutmeg.
  7. Serve with a spoonful of lightly whipped double cream on top, the reserved mushrooms, and a final grind of pepper.
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